By Craig Havighurst
Indianola, Miss.
Driving Highway 61 south from Memphis into the Mississippi Delta
compels a person to imagine life stooped over a cotton sack from dawn
to dusk, deprived of comfort and opportunity. And as the vast fields
glide by, a traveler might also reflect on some improbable truths: that
music could be a balm for such an existence, that the music of slaves
and sharecroppers could evolve into something as mutable and powerful
as the blues, and that a man could carry the blues out of that
miserable place to enrich the world and be hailed as a king.
That's the story told with color and context at the new B.B.
King Museum and Delta Interpretive Center in Indianola, an artfully
rusted town of 12,000 people in the heart of blues country. The $14
million facility is likely the most elaborate museum in the U.S. about
a single living musician, but Mr. King's stature justifies the
investment. The 83-year-old is to the blues what Luciano Pavarotti was
to opera or Wynton Marsalis is to jazz: a household name and a global
ambassador.
But while he's logged thousands of shows and visited most
countries on Earth, Mr. King has reportedly been a proud son of
Indianola, returning regularly to host shows and stay in touch with the
area. About 400 members of his extended family were there when Mr. King
attended the museum's grand opening in early September. What he saw was
a modern corrugated steel and timber building tastefully conjoined to a
1920s cotton gin where he'd worked as a teenager before lighting out
for Memphis. The modest but beautiful brick structure will serve as a
gallery and performance space.
Inside the museum proper, a 10-minute film sets a reflective
mood. Very recent performance footage reminds us that Mr. King is
neither gone nor retired but still active and musically potent. And we
ride with him on his tour bus, following directions from an old audio
recording of his father's voice, to a humble patch of farmland that Mr.
King believes was his birthplace.
The homecoming gesture works because Mr. King's journey has
been so extraordinary, and the exhibits begin in an anteroom that uses
ambient sound, images and light to evoke that journey's origins in the
Depression-era Delta. Here, young Riley B. King lost his mother at age
9, then lived with various family members before eventually working the
land for a white tenant farmer. Musically, Mr. King was taken with
gospel and the region's acoustic blues, as well as with the big bands
that he saw on an early video jukebox at the local tavern called a
Panoram (an example in the museum and several interactive displays
weren't functioning a week after opening but have now been fixed.). He
assimilated the suave presentation and big sound of those bands as a
guitarist and bandleader.
Mr. King's first attempt to establish himself in Memphis fell
short, but in late 1948 he returned for good and, with the help of a
cousin, the bluesman Bukka White, he found his footing in the capital
city of the blues and black culture. Mr. King sang himself onto a radio
slot pitching Peptikon patent medicine over the revolutionary WDIA. In
one of the museum's most fascinating stretches, we see through WDIA
artifacts and Memphis street photography how the radio station's
embrace of black music, aided by the vibrant live music scene on Beale
Street, fueled the rise of rhythm and blues.
The young Mr. King took the nickname "The Beale Street Blues
Boy" before shortening it to B.B. and making his first hit record. The
sultry and melancholy "Three O'Clock Blues" heralded his arrival in
1951, and a run of success on the rhythm-and-blues chart allowed him to
take his talent on the road.
Stages, tour buses and hotels would be Mr. King's world from
that point on, and the museum makes one of its several shifts in color
and tone to illustrate the excitement and struggle of shepherding a big
band around the network of black clubs and halls known as the chitlin'
circuit during the segregated 1950s and '60s. A leather-bound notebook
in which Mr. King kept his song charts, cross-referenced by songwriter,
is among the more arresting items in the sequence.
The home stretch covers the artist's embrace by white
audiences in the late 1960s. There is remarkable film from a night at
San Francisco's Fillmore West when Mr. King, seeing the complexion of
his audience, thought his booking agent had made a mistake. But the
crowd of young white rock fans roars with passion and acceptance,
bolstered in no small part by the Rolling Stones, Eric Clapton and
other blues-rooted rock stars who were by then citing Mr. King as a key
influence.
The B.B. King Museum took shape over the past five years as a
biracial coalition raised private and state money with the aim of
creating a critical tourist destination in a struggling region. The
museum's executive director, Connie Gibbons, says that once the
facility is complete (a blues study center and outdoor performance
venue are still under construction), it will also be an education hub
with after-school music activities for at-risk kids.
"The thing that makes [King] so different from all the rest is
his character and his commitment to his community, whether that's his
band or the small town of Indianola or wherever he is," Ms. Gibbons
says. "He has this work ethic and this commitment to improving himself
each and every day. That's the message that you want your visitors and
young people to walk away with."
Until recently, blues pilgrims traveling to the Mississippi
Delta had to be resourceful, looking for blues performances in
hard-to-find clubs with irregular hours. There were few choices for
upscale lodging, and few destinations beyond grave sites. Now, with the
Alluvian Hotel and Viking cooking school in nearby Greenwood, a blues
museum and actor Morgan Freeman's nightclub and restaurant in historic
Clarksdale, and the B.B. King Museum in Indianola, the Delta is a bit
less forbidding but no less wondrous.
Mr. Havighurst is a writer and media producer in Nashville, Tenn.
Posted on
Mon, October 20, 2008
by B.B. King Museum Staff